One of two cylinder assemblies
After the two cylinder assemblies were removed, the four brass end plate covers were removed, exposing the interior of the water jacket. Both cylinder assemblies were then cleaned with solvent, removing all grease and heavy buildup.
Next both cylinders were bead blasted and rodded to remove all rust and accumulated scale. All studs were re-threaded, some needed to be replaced. The screw holes for the water jacket end plate covers needed to be tapped and re-threaded.
A small amount of filler was applied to the exterior surfaces of both cylinder assemblies to prepare them for painting.
Cooling system inlets and outlets were sealed to allow the application of a liquid ceramic block sealant. This type of sealant eliminates possible water leaks and enhances coolant circulation.
The liquid block sealer was drained from each cylinder assembly after the cylinder was rotated and positioned to assure full coverage of all interior surfaces. The manufacturer recommended that the cylinders be heated to fully cure the sealant. A heat gun was used to enhance the drying and curing process. After heating, the blocks were allowed to cure for several days in the 105 degree California sun!
We used SEAL-ALL head and block sealer
Bare cylinder assembly. Note the dark color of the water jacket interior surfaces after the curing of the sealant.
A cylinder assembly after painting with two stage epoxy paint. We have not mentioned the amount of time that this type of work takes. We never hurry, we strive to achieve good results. For those of you who may know, the filling, sanding, priming, sealing, and painting of the cylinders was an arduous task!
A cylinder assembly after painting and installation of brass water jacket end plates, The original end plates were in good restorable condition. Good thing that we had plenty of NOS brass fillister head screws!
A cylinder assembly with restored valve guides, piston and connecting rod assemblies ready for installation on to the crankcase and crankshaft.